Semyonov
Semyonov is the centre of the Old Believers, the capital of the Golden Khokhloma, and the birthplace of the poet Boris Kornilov. Founded in the XVII century not far from the Kerzhenets river steeped in legend, this town of small wooden houses with intricate carvings is a true open-air museum!
A FEW FACTS
An Ancient Old Believers’ Village
The first mention of Semyonov dates back to 1644, when the village of Semyonovskoe was a trade and cultural center. The traditions and customs of the Old Believers were preserved here.Semyonov was granted the status of a county town of the Nizhny Novgorod province in 1779.
The Spoon Carving Capital of Russia
The oldest craft of the Semyonovsky district is considered to be spoon carving: in the XIX century the city was known as the «spoon carving capital of Russia». Chiseled spoons were brought to Semyonov from the surrounding villages. After finishing and painting they were delivered to the Nizhny Novgorod Trade Fair.By the way, the expression «to beat the buckets» came from Semyonov, as the «buckets» are the blanks for wooden spoons.
Khokhloma Painting
The artistic craft of Khokhloma painting was developed here; its origin is attributed to the XVII century, when Old Believers fleeing the persecution of the official church hid away in the remote forests of the Volga region. The craft of making dishes with unordinary colors then came to be called «Khokhloma» after the name of the trading village of Khokhloma, where the products of local craftsmen were brought for sale.
The Semyonov Nesting Doll
In 1922, the Semyonov Painting Workshop began to produce nesting dolls (matryoshka) with its distinctive trademark yellow-red background, and a bright bouquet of flowers on the apron.
The largest Matryoshka
The largest matryoshka doll ever made in Semyonov was produced in 1970 to honor the 100th anniversary of the birth of Vladimir Lenin. It was made up of a total of 72 figures.
The Birthplace of the Poet Boris Kornilov
The Semyonovsky district is the birthplace of the Soviet poet Boris Kornilov, known for poems like «Song about the Oncoming» («The morning greets us with coolness / The river greets us with the wind»). In 1937, the poet was arrested on false charges, and in 1938, he was executed.
The Surviving Old Believers
In the XIX and early XX centuries, Semyonov was the most important center for the Old Believers, and the only place in Russia where leather rosaries (prayer ropes) were made for them. The Old Believer culture is still very much alive in Semyonov and the surrounding area.
The forestry industry
On the town’s coat of arms, in addition to the traditional deer representing the wider Nizhny Novgorod region, you can also see elements of traditional Khokhloma painting, as well as a pyramid of logs, which reflects the importance of forests and woodworking for the residents of the district.
WHAT TO DO IN THE CITY
01
Discover to your surprise that Semyonov is a little Paris!
Semyonov is called a city of five squares and a «little Paris», all because the plan for its settlement was approved by Catherine II at the end of the XVIII century, and the classical principles of French urban planning are reflected in its radial layout. You can see this layout from a bird's-eye view only, but just keep it in mind, and try to walk along Lenina Street in the town center as if you are somewhere on Vendome Square. Be careful with the pigeons, there are a lot of them here!
02
Explore the history of the Old Believers in the Museum of Art and History
You can begin your walk around the town from the museum located in the former mansion of the old believer Pyotr Sharygin, where the XIX century merchant-style interior has been preserved. Here you can not only take a look at the everyday-life items of the citizens of past centuries and get acquainted with the life and work of probably Semyonov’s most famous poet, Boris Kornilov, but also learn a lot about the history of Semyonov’s Old Believers. If you have read Melnikov-Pechersky, then you will find it all the more interesting.
03
Appreciate the architecture of the city
Semyonov is a treasure trove of architectural attractions. One of the most beautiful houses in the city is the mansion of the merchant Nosov. Nosov was the "spoon king" and made a fortune out of the carved utensils. Partly thanks to him, Semyonov was the spoon capital of Russia in the XIX century. On the opposite side of the street, you can find the St. Nicholas Old Believers Church built with the money of the same Nosov. I can recognize by its bright orange hue. Other interesting houses include the estates of Ivan Khanykin and Grigory Vitushkin, whose main decoration is a massive brick arched gate designed in the eclectic style. The post office is located there now, so if you are passing by, be sure to pop inside and send home a postcard from Semyonov.
04
Immerse yourself in the real Russian way of life in the House of Semyon the Spoonsmith
Built according to all the hallowed traditions of wooden architecture, the museum is located in a rough-hewn peasant hut, so this is a real journey through time! But who was Semyon the Spoonsmith? According to legend, this master made birch spoons in the local forests for the troops of Ivan the Terrible. The Russian army equipped with those spoons has never been defeated, because they could wolf down cabbage soup and porridge with their wooden spoons faster than their enemies could do it with their heated tin ones. The museum is not only dedicated to spoons, even though there are more than 700 of them here. Visitors can also see with their own eyes how our ancestors lived, as well as participate in various activities: attend a folk music concert or take a master class on making lucky-charm dolls, woven belts, and painted spoons.
05
Buy a matryoshka doll!
You will simply not be able to leave Semyonov without a matryoshka doll! In the local museum of matryoshka dolls and traditional toys, you can learn about the roots of this craft, see a huge collection of antique specimens produced not only by the local factory, but throughout the Soviet Union. As it turns out, there is no limit to the variety of dolls on display! Pride of place in the collection belongs to a unique record-breaking giant 72-piece matryoshka doll created in 1970. Be sure to check out the local store where you can buy nesting dolls at reasonable prices, and if you want something special and handmade, then paint your own toy at the master class.
06
Learn all about Khokhloma painting at the Golden Khokhloma Museum and Tourist Center
Khokhloma is everywhere in Semyonov, but the maximum concentration of it is here, in the largest modern museum of folk wooden arts in Russia! The exposition has one of the country’s largest collections of items made from the second half of the XIX century to the first half of the XX century displaying a variety of ornaments and unique painting technology. For example, you can see the very rare green Khokhloma decorated with lilies of the valley, created especially for the singer Lyudmila Zykina. The central place of the Royal Room exposition is taken by the unique set of 240 items, and each item is crowned with the Russian coat of arms and decorated with elements of hand sculptural carving.
07
Learn more about Khokhloma Painting at the Khokhloma Painting Workshop
You have already realized that Semyonov is the capital of Khokhloma painting, that this is the town’s trademark. A festival dedicated to this craft is held here, and it seems that every local has something with a Khokhloma pattern at home. At the Khokhloma Painting Workshop, you can book an excursion, see the entire production line with your own eyes, observe the filigree work of craftsmen, and participate in a master class.
WHERE TO GO AND WHAT TO SEE
Lake Verkhneye
Semyonov, Zavodskaya str.
A public beach for swimming and fishing on the Sanokhta river, featuring a walking area with a pontoon bridge, a beautiful rotunda, and many ducks.
Monument to Boris Kornilov
Semyonov, Boris Kornilov sq.
A monument dedicated to the poet Boris Kornilov, a native of Semyonov.
Kornilov Square
Semyonov, Boris Kornilov sq.
The town square, where the monument to the poet Boris Kornilov is located. Here, you can sit on swings with awnings or on benches in the form of spoons.
The Khokhloma Painting Workshop
Semyonov, 18Б Chkalova str.
Here you can take a walk through the workshops and see the stages of production of the traditional Semyonov craft, as well as paint a souvenir for yourself.
The Museum of Matryoshka Dolls and Traditional Toys
Semyonov, 1A Chernyshevskogo str.
A museum where you can see a vast collection of the world-famous painted wooden doll.
Working hours
Tuesday - Friday — 09:30-17:30;
Saturday - Sunday — 09:30-14:00;
Monday — day off
The House of Semyon the Spoonsmith folk museum
Semyonov, 18/1 Chkalova str.
A museum dedicated to the life and traditions of the peasantry, located in a real peasant’s hut, with a huge collection of painted spoons.
Working hours
Monday - Friday — 09:00-17:00;
Saturday — 09:00-13:00,
Sunday— 10:00-16:00
Monument to the three Communists
Semyonov, Oktyabr’skoy Revolutsii sq.
A five-meter-high monument located on one of Semyonov’s central squares.
The Culture and Art Center
Semyonov, 3 Lenina sq.
A hall of culture, opened in 1937; on its façade, you can see a large clock in the form of a firebird decorated with Khokhloma artworks.
Semenov’s main square
Semyonov, Lenina sq.
On the main square in Semyonov, there is a pond with a beautiful fountain where you can relax on benches or swings beneath huge maple trees.
The Semyonov Museum of Art and History
Semyonov, 5 Vaneeva str.
The mansion of Peter Sharygin with a XIX century merchant-style interior and exhibitions dedicated to the Old Believers and the poet Boris Kornilov.
Working hours
Monday - Friday — 09:00-17:00,
Saturday — 09:00-14:00,
Sunday — 10:00-16:00
Vaneeva Street
Semyonov, Vaneeva str.
One of the town’s main streets, where you can see the ancient wooden houses of wealthy townsfolk and merchants, decorated with openwork carvings.
The Kerzhenets River
Pokrovskoye Village
A tributary on the left bank of the Volga. Stood settlements of the Old Believers were there once and is now this place is especially popular among kayakers and fishermen.
The Osinki Sacred Well
Osinki Village
A consecrated spring set in the forest, where the ancient Orthodox monastery of the Sofontiev Tolk once stood, alongside the graves of the monks who were burned at the stake here in 1720.
